I arrived in Tunisia on April 27th for what will be surely too short a visit. And yet I won't lie. There has been more than one moment since my arrival two short days here when I have considered changing my flight date and leaving early. But ultimately I'm glad I'm here and I'm starting to find my feet. It is a strange mix of other parts of the Middle East I have visited, European influence - France and Italy in particular - and possibly coastal east Africa (though the influence is likely the other way around).
My frustrations here stem from the number of people trying to take advantage of me, which has quite frankly become exhausting. The motives vary but generally revolve around money and sex, which I suppose shouldn't surprised me. From taxi drivers who are trying to scam naive tourists - to my hotel which claimed to be in Tunis centre but was in fact in another city and mainly attracted old business men - to the friendly cab driver (organized by my hotel) who interpreted my returned friendliness as a desire to have sex with him - to the so-called tourist officer who claimed to be taking me to a unique traditional carpet exhibit only to take me to his brother's perfume stand, these experiences have invariably started with me wanting to understand the local psyche and ended with me being upset and frustrated at my inability to communicate and be treated with respect. I love meeting locals and I take the opportunity talk to people when I can about who they are and what they do. But these experiences become tedious after a while. And yet, if it was me in the same situations, surely I would do what I could to help bring business to my brother's shop, and perhaps I would also try to get more money for something I have if the person didn't know any better.
Despite these frustrations, Tunisia is a fascinating country, and the sources of this frustration are also understandable. It has had an economy that was reasonably well developed compared to other MENA (Middle East North Africa) countries, but while its people are very proud (particularly in the wake of the 2011 revolution that both ousted long-standing president Zine El Abidine Ben Ali and catalyzed the so-called Arab Spring and is decidedly the most successful among the revolutionary countries), the revolution has exacerbated economic challenges, particularly for those living in rural areas. And while there is general support for the budding and democratically elected Islamic Ennahda, the financial pressures have created a space where the long-suppressed Islamic groups (salafists) have gained support, which poses a threat to the more liberal tendencies found here. Women's rights are considerably more advanced here than in other places, but there are still lots of differences. There are still plenty of male-dominated cafes, where I feel like a piece of meat when I walk by and wouldn't dare go, but there are lot of women of all walks of life out socializing, buying make-up, and working in different jobs. I also feel enormous intrepidation when I don't know what is happening - due in no small part to two attacks I have experienced, first in Rome in 1995 (see February 2010 entry, Traffic) and a second in Turkey in 2006.
The medina (old city) in Tunis is an experience not to be missed. A virtual maze of shops for all kinds of wears, frequened even more by the locals than the tourists, the medina features many different souqs - the ladies souq is mainly for jewelry, but there is also a wedding souq, a wool souq, a souq for traditional hats, for shoes, for tacky tourist gifts, for carpets, perfumes, etc. In a small area, a person can sample the goods of dozens of different vendors, as shop owners try to convince you to come into their store "juste pour voire." An economist might consider this efficient. I find it frustrating, but also endearing at the same time. Without fail, the only places where I would shop were places where the owners left me alone until I had questions, who were willing to bargain and who showed respect.
I have also been enjoying the different experiences that I have been able to have here. I dined at an exceptional restaurant called Dar El-Jeld in the Medina, where I got to listen to moving traditional folk music. I had the chance to listen to the lively music form a Tunisian wedding taking place at my hotel. Five times a day, no matter where I am, I hear every day the call-prayer from the mosques in the towns and cities I visit. I also enjoy taking in the selection of local music on the radio. And in between I am subjected to the strangest - if not cheesiest - selection of north american music - My heart will go on (Celine Dion), Total eclipse of the heart (Bonnie Tyler), When I see you smile (Bad English), She's like the wind (Patrick Swayze), etc.
The history stemming from this place is also legendary, as a rival of the Romans and Egyptians. The sites, museums and stories are well worth a visit, even if I am somewhat ruined out. I can't help but take note of all the female leaders (princesses and queens) who were powerful and defining forces of antiquity but who we here little about in history lessons (apart from Cleopatra, Athena and the likes).
Tonight, I am in a town called La Marsa, near Carthage, which seems to be frequented much more by local and regional tourists than Europeans and Americans. I am at an outdoor hotel bar at Plaza Corniche Hote, which has a stunning view over the Mediterranean fishing community, and I am enjoying a few beers here before making my way back to my hotel. I wish I had time to visit the south. This is cheezy I know, but I would love to visit the town of Matmata, which is where the scenes of Tatouine (a real town here) were filmed in Star Wars. I would also love to visit the Sahara. But alas, that will have to wait for another trip.
Ok, that's it for now. I will try to post once more before I go, but I'm not sure that it will be possible. See you on the other side.
My frustrations here stem from the number of people trying to take advantage of me, which has quite frankly become exhausting. The motives vary but generally revolve around money and sex, which I suppose shouldn't surprised me. From taxi drivers who are trying to scam naive tourists - to my hotel which claimed to be in Tunis centre but was in fact in another city and mainly attracted old business men - to the friendly cab driver (organized by my hotel) who interpreted my returned friendliness as a desire to have sex with him - to the so-called tourist officer who claimed to be taking me to a unique traditional carpet exhibit only to take me to his brother's perfume stand, these experiences have invariably started with me wanting to understand the local psyche and ended with me being upset and frustrated at my inability to communicate and be treated with respect. I love meeting locals and I take the opportunity talk to people when I can about who they are and what they do. But these experiences become tedious after a while. And yet, if it was me in the same situations, surely I would do what I could to help bring business to my brother's shop, and perhaps I would also try to get more money for something I have if the person didn't know any better.
Despite these frustrations, Tunisia is a fascinating country, and the sources of this frustration are also understandable. It has had an economy that was reasonably well developed compared to other MENA (Middle East North Africa) countries, but while its people are very proud (particularly in the wake of the 2011 revolution that both ousted long-standing president Zine El Abidine Ben Ali and catalyzed the so-called Arab Spring and is decidedly the most successful among the revolutionary countries), the revolution has exacerbated economic challenges, particularly for those living in rural areas. And while there is general support for the budding and democratically elected Islamic Ennahda, the financial pressures have created a space where the long-suppressed Islamic groups (salafists) have gained support, which poses a threat to the more liberal tendencies found here. Women's rights are considerably more advanced here than in other places, but there are still lots of differences. There are still plenty of male-dominated cafes, where I feel like a piece of meat when I walk by and wouldn't dare go, but there are lot of women of all walks of life out socializing, buying make-up, and working in different jobs. I also feel enormous intrepidation when I don't know what is happening - due in no small part to two attacks I have experienced, first in Rome in 1995 (see February 2010 entry, Traffic) and a second in Turkey in 2006.
The medina (old city) in Tunis is an experience not to be missed. A virtual maze of shops for all kinds of wears, frequened even more by the locals than the tourists, the medina features many different souqs - the ladies souq is mainly for jewelry, but there is also a wedding souq, a wool souq, a souq for traditional hats, for shoes, for tacky tourist gifts, for carpets, perfumes, etc. In a small area, a person can sample the goods of dozens of different vendors, as shop owners try to convince you to come into their store "juste pour voire." An economist might consider this efficient. I find it frustrating, but also endearing at the same time. Without fail, the only places where I would shop were places where the owners left me alone until I had questions, who were willing to bargain and who showed respect.
I have also been enjoying the different experiences that I have been able to have here. I dined at an exceptional restaurant called Dar El-Jeld in the Medina, where I got to listen to moving traditional folk music. I had the chance to listen to the lively music form a Tunisian wedding taking place at my hotel. Five times a day, no matter where I am, I hear every day the call-prayer from the mosques in the towns and cities I visit. I also enjoy taking in the selection of local music on the radio. And in between I am subjected to the strangest - if not cheesiest - selection of north american music - My heart will go on (Celine Dion), Total eclipse of the heart (Bonnie Tyler), When I see you smile (Bad English), She's like the wind (Patrick Swayze), etc.
The history stemming from this place is also legendary, as a rival of the Romans and Egyptians. The sites, museums and stories are well worth a visit, even if I am somewhat ruined out. I can't help but take note of all the female leaders (princesses and queens) who were powerful and defining forces of antiquity but who we here little about in history lessons (apart from Cleopatra, Athena and the likes).
Tonight, I am in a town called La Marsa, near Carthage, which seems to be frequented much more by local and regional tourists than Europeans and Americans. I am at an outdoor hotel bar at Plaza Corniche Hote, which has a stunning view over the Mediterranean fishing community, and I am enjoying a few beers here before making my way back to my hotel. I wish I had time to visit the south. This is cheezy I know, but I would love to visit the town of Matmata, which is where the scenes of Tatouine (a real town here) were filmed in Star Wars. I would also love to visit the Sahara. But alas, that will have to wait for another trip.
Ok, that's it for now. I will try to post once more before I go, but I'm not sure that it will be possible. See you on the other side.
